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Finally watched this last night, and it blew me away. Not sure if this replaces Aguirre as my favorite Herzog film, but it's damn close. Nearly every sequence leaves an impression, from the song in the courtyard to the amazing ending with that damn chicken. Bruno S is simply an amazing presence, and Eva Mattes' performance made me want to see everything else in which she's appeared.

EDIT: Ebert's Great Movies review is much more eloquent than mine. (spoilers)