Where can I get 8mm film / have 8mm film developed?

Are we talking old school 8mm or Super 8mm?

I always bought mine directly from Kodak.

<a href="http://www.kodak.com/US/en/motion/super8/film.shtml" target="_blank">http://www.kodak.com/US/en/motion/super8/film.shtml</a>

I hope you're wanting Super-8 and not regular, because I don't think anyone makes regular 8 anymore.

What I used to do was call Kodak and when you buy the film, you can also buy a developing mailer, so after you've shot the film you mail it to them and they develop it for you and send it back. It was cheaper that way and a bit easier. I don't know if they still do this, as I last used the stuff three years ago.

Answer: No. Basically, regular 8mm is just 16mm that your camera will print on both sides. What happens is the film will run through the camera and only expose for 1/2 of the film. Then, you flip the film inside the camera over, exposing for the other 1/2 of the film. So with 16mm film, you've sucessfully exposed both sides of the film at 8mm on each side. A changing bag (so light does not get onto the emulsion) would be extremely necessary when you 'flip' over the film inside.

As to who will expose/process regular 8mm film, you're on your own (I know that there's only one well-respected place in North America that processes Super-8mm film, somewhere in Kansas, but I'm sure there's others that are mom&pop like...). But whoever does will have to seperate the 16mm by separating both sides down the center.

Super 8mm is easier to do, it's just a small cartridge that you can load/unload in any lighting situations, but like 8mm, is a BITCH and a half to when it comes time to edit and splice together. It's all too damn small...

Anyways, good luck! Any thoughts on what type of movie you wanna make?

I didn't realize you had to flip the regular 8 over. No wonder it died a hideous death. There's way too much chance of screwing up the film.

A good way to determine what kind of camera it is, is to see if it would accept a Super-8 cartridge, or does it have a manual spool? That would make it regular 8.

As for editing, Yando's right...I never attempted to edit the stuff on film. I just transferred to video and edited that way.

I have been filming in Super-8 for a year and a half now. I don't know much about regular 8 other than the sprocket holes on it are bigger than super-8's holes.

I will tell you right now that Kodak, the only company I know that still makes super-8 film only makes silent film. Unless you can find someone on Ebay selling super8 sound film that they have kept in their freezer (other wise it goes bad) for a couple of years you will need to use non sync sound. Which basically involves recording your soundtrack on tape/CD and playing it at the same time as the first frame of your movie.

I find this is a good thing for me because it forces me to experiment in trying to tell a story with only visuals and no dialogue. Also you can use voice over and music since neither have of be exactly in sync with the projection.

Now about places to develop your film. You can always send it to Kodak and they will do it but it takes a while because they send it to a place in Switzerland. Now the places I send my film are different. Let me explain there are four types of Super-8 film

In black and white there is Plus-X and Tri-X one is more sensitive to light than the other making it more suitable for indoor filming (but I forget which one it is). Just remember that the less light you need for a certain film the bigger the film’s grain which means a less detailed picture. The outdoor film, which needs more light than the indoor film, will give you a better picture.

In color the two choices of film are Kodachrome and Ektachrome ( not sure if I am spelling them right). Kodachrome is the outdoor film while Ektachrome is indoor. The main difference between color and B&W film (beside the obvious ones in color and one is in B&W) is that B&W film is more light sensitive giving you a better chance for your film to come out.

The reason why I am telling you this is because if you want to send your film to be developed to someplace other than Kodak you better know which place will develop what type of film. For example the place that someone mentioned that is in Kansas will only take and develop Kodachrome. I have a list of places that develop super-8 film but I can’t seem to find it right now. I try to come back and post the paces once I find it. For now here is the website to the place (highly recommended) in Kansas: <a href="http://www.k-14movies.com" target="_blank">http://www.k-14movies.com</a>

One more thing make sure your cameras have a light meter on them. Usually you’ll see a little dial that moves when you look through the eyepiece. It is either at the very bottom or top of the frame but some cameras have them in the corner of the frame. While the camera is on look in the frame and try aiming the camera a someplace dark then at someplace much brighter if you see the dial move everything is working fine, if you don’t see it move try holding down the trigger and checking again. If still nothing is moving you either have a broken one or need to change your batteries. It is important that you have one that works because when the camera is on auto it is what controls how much light is let in. You can always manually control the iris of the camera but I don’t pretend to know how. Heck it took me long time to learn how to get a clear focus.

I hope some of this info helps and I didn’t just swamp you with too much stuff. Hope you have fun filming.

I edit my stuff on film all you need is a viewer, splicer and splicing tape. Used viewers don't cost too much (around $20 - $30).

Yeah, but half the time it comes out like crap, and I didn't want to cut into my only copy of the film. I find editing digitally is worlds better...you can add as much sound as you want, get cleaner cuts, experiment with the form, and most importantly, preserve your film.

I shot a feature in Super-8 with a thousand dollar camera (Nizo) which played some big festivals. Everything else was either DV or higher end film. You just don't see much Super-8 anymore. I gave up on it too.

My friend bought a super 8 recently. How is the quality of the image? I've heard it can be blown up to 35mm, and looks decent.

It can be blown up but that does not mean it should be. From what I've heard never blow up super-8 into 35 and expect a quality image. Though I have never tried it so ask someone who has.

I guess I'd just shoot 35 if I was expecting a quality image on 35mm, but thanks for the response.

Short of "whether it should be blown it up" or any other question of ethics, what kind of image is it?

I've heard the image the people use as an example of how good the image will turn out is nothing like what normaly comes out. I suggest that you, even though it is tons more expensive, film in 16mm if you want to blow up to 35mm.

My teacher in my fimmaking class told me this so this is all based on his opinon.

He's right. You can blow up 16mm to 35mm, and if you shoot it right, you'll never even notice.

You WILL notice Super-8 blow up to 35. Ultra grain and possibly washed-out colors.

This is more of a personal question, not directly related to 8mm film, but...

Is mini-dv more comparable to 16mm or 8mm when blowing up to 35?